Apehanger handlebar installation

From the start I planned to put apehangers on the Victory. The stock bars are just a little too far forward for me. I adjusted them some but nothing helped. I had a similar (actually worse) problem on my Nomad. On it I put on risers then added 13" apehangers. This time I went with 16" apehangers from the start. I got 16" Chubbys from Wild1 (P/N WO509). They have 1 1/4" tubing except for the clamp and grip areas. Amazon had the best price.

The stock handlebars and controls are easy to remove. All the fasteners are easy to get to. I put two layers of towels on the gas tank 'just in case'.

I knew from research the stock risers wouldn't work with the Chubby bars. They have a 5" Harley clamp spacing. The Victory clamps are 5 1/2" wide, so I got a set of used Harley clamps on Ebay for ~$20.

My plan was to retain the stock Victory isolators since they are rubber mounted. The Harley clamps use 1/2" bolts so I had to drill out the isolators. When I assembled everything I was disappointed to find this wasn't going to work. The stock Victory setup includes sleeves between the isolators that adds rigidity to the whole setup. The sleeves were too small for the Harley bolts and without them the handlebars had a lot of slop in them.

I went ahead and used the Harley isolators. They are chromed and thicker than the Victory isolators. Everything fit perfectly on the Victory trees and the setup is rock solid. I ran a tap through all the bolt holes to clean the old Loctite out of the threads. It makes assembly so much smoother. Don't forget the new Loctite.

The 16" Chubby apehangers in place.

I did some mocking up and decided to order cables and brake hoses 8" longer than stock. I ordered Barnett cables from Phat Performance. The front brake hose was ordered from Conquest Customs. They were the only place I could find that offered extended brake lines specifically for the V92TC.

It takes a few weeks for these to be made so now I wait. The new handlebars feel a lot better. No stretching, and a comfortable wrist position. I had debated changing the grips to Kuryakyn but I think I'm going to stick with the stock grips...at least for now.

One month later - still waiting on the cables from Phat Performance. The brake line from Conquest Customs only took a week to get.

It ended up taking about five weeks to get the extended cables. Then it took about another month before I was able to take a break from my house remodeling to install them. The whole process is remove and replace and not that complicated so I'm not documenting every step. I'm going to show the parts that required some extra attention.

The clutch cable looked like it would be the hardest to install so I did it first. The first step is unbolting it at the transmission end. This is a little difficult due to lack of space. It takes a 1/2" wrench and the smaller the wrench the better. I thought about removing the battery box but it looked like more trouble than it was worth.

Next you have to get the cable out of this clip near the rear brake reservoir. A screwdriver or two helps here. It takes more effort than you'd think.

I still had problems getting the cable out then noticed there was a ziptie I hadn't seen before.

I temporarily removed this rubber isolator so the cable could move more freely.

This grommet has to be removed so the cable can go through the frame. Now install the new cable.

The throttle cables are easy to replace. Here is a picture of where the three cables attach to. The cable on the right is the throttle return cable. The cable in the left rear is the normal throttle cable. The other cable is the fast idle cable.

The right control housing has a locating pin for the handlebar. When I did my Nomad I ground this pin off, but it allowed the housing to drift over time as I could never get it tight enough. This time I found a position I liked and drilled a hole for the pin.

The extended brake lines came with this nice chromed junction block.

I used a longer M7 bolt to mount the junction block. I made sure the connections were tight, then I flushed the brake lines and I was done.

Apehangers with new cables and hoses.

Update - When I started putting the bike back together I had a few issues worth mentioning. The throttle cable was too tight when the handlebars were turned all the way to the right. I routed the cable under the frame instead of on top of it like the factory setup. I also had a problem with the turn signal button hitting the internal wiring for a left turn. This simply required tucking the wires a little more inside the handlebar. However, while I was doing this the fast idle lever kept becoming a problem when I tried to assemble the housing. When I could get the housing together the lever had almost no movement. My solution was to ditch the fast idle cable. One less thing to mess with.

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